Dive #69 - Rich Torkington's Dive Log

Beauty and tranquility heading out for 1st dive of the trip
Vidcap by Rich Torkington in Kosrae 2001

Dive Journal: In celebration of our 20th anniversary, Linda and I have long ago decided to take an extended trip to several Pacific islands. We spend three days on Oahu lounging at Alan’s place in Kuliou’ou, soaking up the Hawaiian atmosphere, lazing out on assorted beaches, visiting with Alice, Chuck, and Alan, and of course eating great food. I even manage to get in a lovely morning hike up Kuliou’ou Ridge Trail to the summit of the Koolaus.

With Janel and John staying in the company of Alice, Chuck, and Alan, Linda and I take off on Continental (“Air Mike”) for the distant island of Kosrae, one of the primary islands in the Federated States of Micronesia. It is a fairly long travel day, with stops in Majuro (Marshall Islands) and Kwajelien. We especially marvel at the way the pilots are able to stop a 737 jet on the small island runways, which are built on skinny rails of coral that jut out into the water barely above the high tide line.

At the Kosrae airport, we are picked up by Katrina and other staffers and driven around the island to the Kosrae Village Resort. We are delighted to find our bungalow just perfect, nestled among dense coconut palms hugging the shoreline, and the most remote one among the nine at the resort. It is nicely appointed with a great outdoor shower and comfortable beds with mosquito net drapes. We think perhaps it is the honeymoon suite.

Once settled in, we learn that Katrina and Dave (guest from California) are going out on a night dive, and we both volunteer to go along, too, despite our travel fatigue. Katrina’s hope is that we may be able to see signs of the corals spawning, and we also know that tomorrow is Sunday – no diving is permitted on Kosrae on Sundays. So we get our gear unpacked and we’re ready in no time.

The conditions are wonderful and a full moon is rising. The water is comfortably warm and there is near-perfect visibility. We are immediately astounded by the unbelieveable variety and extent of corals. Our first exciting discovery is 2 spotfin lionfishes, definately one of the sights we’ve come to see! Gorgeous odd creatures that swim slowly around or remain prone on the bottom for the most part.

There are many broad patches of soft and hard corals, and we spend time examining different varieties for signs of spawning. Truthfully, I don’t really know exactly what I am looking for, but I especially like the soft corals swaying to and fro in the surge currents. We see no signs of spawning, however – maybe we are a day or two too early. Linda and I enjoy the company of a very quick flatworm who swims towards Linda and twirls mid water in our lights.

Best part of the dive for me is the exit, as we complete our safety stop and slowly rise to the surface. Breaking the surface of the very calm water, we discover the night sky with a good display of stars and rising moon. No one makes even a sound and the feeling is very tranquil. I am drinking in this feeling so I will remember it!

Back on the boat, Katrina serves up hot chocolate and the island serves up wonderful warm breezes as we enjoy the slow dark ride to the dock. Welcome to Kosrae!